(MENAFN- AFP) Hussein Chalayan returned to the London catwalk on Saturday for the first time in 16 years, with relaxed but structured tailoring inspired by Greek folk culture -- and an explosion of glitter.
Models took to the stage at Sadler's Wells theatre in a collection featuring loose-fitting dresses, shirts with built-in waistcoats, and carrot-shaped trousers with wrap belts in wool blend knitted felts.
For the finale, they ripped off geometric print panels on the front of their dresses -- helpfully labelled "Pull To Open" -- to unleash a spurt of glittery foil streamers onto the ground.
"It was a combination of a protest and a celebration -- I wanted these very tacky things coming out, that I found very beautiful," Chalayan told reporters backstage.
"That's what life is, that you can have that duality -- the protest element, but also the purity." brings glitter explosion to London
Elsewhere, there were cashmere black dresses cut to look as if they were falling off the shoulders, bold black and white prints and delicate tops embroidered with hand-drawn Greek figures.
Born to Turkish-Cypriot parents in Nicosia and later raised in Britain, Chalayan is known for his minimalist, elegant and sculptural creations, which have been worn by Bjork and featured in exhibitions and theatre productions around the world.
He started his career in London, where he was twice named Designer of the Year, but, likewith many of his peers, flew the nest for the commercial opportunities of Paris.
"We felt we were making this very big effort, but a lot of people weren't coming. When we moved to Paris our business grew considerably," he said.
Returning to London this season to join British names such as Burberry, Mulberry, Christopher Kane and J.W. Anderson, has delighted his British fans.
But will he stay "I don't know yet. Let's see."
Saturday also saw a one-off homecoming for Ports 1961, which this season switched Milan for London, where creative director Natasa Cagalj and her team all studied and are now based.
Cagalj took her inspiration from the home -- "where we feel the most safe, and the most brave to experiment" -- with prints of glasses, rug-style wrap dresses and mirrored sequins on oversized knits.
Previously at Lanvin and Stella McCartney, the Slovenian designer joined Ports 1961 in 2014, and opened a studio in Clerkenwell.
"Everything is possible in London, there are no limits," she told AFP.
"It's still very inspiring apart from the Brexit situation, which of course shocked us all. But London is so international, I don't think it can lose that."
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