Restaurant Review: A Fusion Twist To Traditional Indian Dishes

I must confess that when it comes to food, I've always been a traditionalist. In Asian cuisine, I've stuck to the chow mien/fried rice/chilli chicken/sweet and sour types, in Indian food, our staples of kebabs, curries, biryani and naans. Or when it comes to Western stuff, it has been the lasagna/steak/soups/souffle types.

So when I arrived at Lavang, the new fine dining restaurant in Downtown Dubai, I was a bit hesitant when I came to know they are big into fusion food. However, after the meal was over, I must say I'm a changed man. Fusion is way to go!

Lavang is the Hindi word for cloves, an essential spice in Indian food. While the restaurant serves traditional Indian dishes, fusion remains its USP.

Diviya Kalra, the founder of the restaurant and daughter of Ashok Kalra, the legendary Indian restaurateur from Kuwait, explains her thoughts behind the fusion menu:“Children might not want butter chicken, but they'll happily enjoy butter chicken pasta. It's about keeping the soul of tradition intact while adding elements that appeal to different palates.”

The ambience itself speaks of the contemporary culture that make Dubai such a global city. As you enter, you are greeted with soft mellow lighting and soothing colours. None of the typical decor that one would associate with a typical Indian eatery, and Lavang seeks to live up to that metric - an Indian restaurant with a global appeal.

Now, to the food.

We began with the Jalebi Chaat - a playful twist on papri chaat, where crispy, tangy jalebis replace the usual wafers. It's bold, unexpected, and leaves a lingering zing.

Next came the Saag Burrata - a fusion of creamy burrata with traditional Indian spinach, served with flatbread. The combination is surprisingly harmonious, with the richness of the cheese balancing the earthiness of the saag.

Then, the standout: Chicken Tikka Conoid. Minced chicken tikka tucked into a crisp flatbread cone - visually striking and perfectly spiced. It's fusion at its finest: familiar flavours in a fresh format.

For mains, we returned to tradition. The Chicken Tikka Trio featured kebabs marinated in fenugreek, bell pepper, onion, malai, and tandoori spices. Texture-wise, they hit the sweet spot - tender enough to cut with a knife, yet firm enough to hold their shape.

The Mutton Roghan Josh was equally well-executed. The meat was succulent, the gravy subtle, and the spice level calibrated for a global palate. Paired with naan and parathas, it was comfort food elevated.

To end, we circled back to fusion with the Gulab Jamun Mousse - a classic mithai perched atop a creamy base. The result? A dessert that's familiar yet novel. As a Bengali with a sweet tooth, I'd have preferred a touch more sweetness, but as Diviya noted, the goal is subtlety - to appeal to a broader audience.

Final thoughts?

Lavang is a compelling addition to Dubai's culinary landscape. Whether you're a purist or an adventurous eater, the menu offers something for everyone - and might just change your mind about fusion cuisine.

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