From Lake To Ladle: How Nadru Shapes Kashmiri Life

By Mushtaq Hurra

Every Kashmiri kitchen is a repository of condiments, spices, aromas, and flavours.

Vegetarian and non-vegetarian cuisines run parallel to each other. However, vegetarian dishes tend to dominate our dining tables because vegetables are more affordable, readily available, economical, and easier to manage than non-vegetarian foods.

Although their prices witness a steep surge during the peak winter months, vegetable aromas still frequently imbue the kitchens of common Kashmiris.

The delicacies of Wazwan and winter-special Hareesa make our taste buds salivate, but vegetables of diverse colours and tastes remain an inseparable part of our culinary system.

Proximity to organically grown vegetables has long been the secret of the longevity and good health of our ancestors.

Non-vegetarian cuisines certainly entice food lovers to include them in their daily meals, but vegetarian dishes remain staples in most households. Even sun-dried vegetables compensate for the scarcity of fresh greens during the harsh winter months.

These exotic dainties have become symbols of our civilisation and heritage. The facades of markets selling sun-dried vegetables proclaim the glory of a culture known for its illustrious past.

Shop fronts laden with dried delicacies lend the old Srinagar city markets an antique charm. It would not be an exaggeration to call Al-Hachi (sun-dried bottle gourd) an emblem of our cultural identity.

Kashmiris undoubtedly consume substantial amounts of mutton, beef, chicken, and fish, but middle- and lower-middle-class families often prefer vegetarian dishes to make ends meet.

The vegetarian trend is also gaining momentum in contemporary times, as health experts and medical professionals urge people to consume more greens, vegetables, and pulses instead of meat and other non-vegetarian foods.

Prosperity is often associated with vegetables rather than meat or fish. The Kashmiri phrase“Haakh Batte” serves as a benchmark of a prosperous and contented life.

When someone is advised to spend judiciously, they are often told to stick to vegetables. Modern healthcare experts, too, emphasise the frequent and adequate consumption of vegetables and legumes due to their wide-ranging health benefits.

Fresh and sun-dried vegetables, along with legumes, are deeply cherished in our part of the world.

Though Haakh (collard greens) often paints our cooking pots green, it is not the most loved vegetable among Kashmiris. Nelumbo nucifera, commonly known as Nadur, is perhaps the crown jewel of our vegetable clan.

Nadru is a perennial aquatic vegetable found in the lakes of the valley. It is believed to have been discovered by Budshah the Great in the fifteenth century, when he, along with his courtiers, was exploring the enchanting beauty of Gilsar.

Since then, the vegetable has ruled our culinary traditions. Even a blend of Nadru and spinach has become an integral part of the multi-course non-vegetarian feast of Kashmir, known as Wazwan.

Major producers of this aquatic delicacy include Dal, Mansbal, Wular, and Anchar lakes. Nadru from Dal Lake is admired by all for its delectable taste.

Our Pandit brethren consume it with great fondness and associate it with Goddess Lakshmi, the deity of wealth and prosperity.

Both Muslims and Hindus of Kashmir never fail to prepare Nadru dishes on festive occasions.

The extraction of Nadru is nothing short of an adventure. The tubers are removed from deep water at the bottom of the valley's major lakes.

Harvesting Nadru is a laborious and arduous task, particularly during winter and late autumn. Many brave souls plunge into freezing waters to uproot the tubers from the swampy lakebeds.

Usually, a special long and thin wooden pole called a“Shum” is used to extract the tuberous plants from beneath the water. A metallic, fork-like tool is tied to one end of the Shum to uproot the plants.

Its taste, flavour, and the difficulty involved in harvesting make Nadru an expensive vegetable.

It is often preferred with fish during winters, and its Yakhni is commonly prepared in Kashmiri kitchens. Its crispy texture also makes it the most popular street snack in Kashmir.

Nader Munji can be found in almost every nook and corner of the valley. Thin slices of Nadru dipped in spicy batter are deep-fried in simmering oil, and people relish these bites to keep their bodies warm.

Nadru has crossed the frontiers of our kitchens and cuisines and has seeped into our language and culture. Though Kashmiri poets may not have extensively popularised it in their works, it remains deeply embedded in everyday conversations.

Several Kashmiri phrases are closely linked to this plant. Nader Phulai (lotus bloom) is often equated with prosperity, purity, strength, and spirituality.

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