The golden light of Dubai's setting sun beamed on the steel rails of the cosy balcony facing the Creek's calm waters. Momentarily, it seemed that I had been air-dropped somewhere away from the glamorous emirate, in an alcove of tranquillity, guarded by nature. Yet Dubai it was, uniquely beautiful with its meditative quality, a perfect nook for the creativity that defines fourth-generation oud expert and perfumer Zakir Gafur Laskar's work.

Zakir makes bespoke perfumes, extraits, and mukhalats, all handcrafted painstakingly, born out of a 'nose' (industry term for perfumers), which he has inherited albeit unconsciously.

A family tradition

Over a cup of espresso, we talk about Zakir's family, his spectrum of fragrances, his love for Dubai, and more.“I have sought to revive our fourth-generation family business since 2015. Our involvement in the oud, or agarwood, industry has been generational. It just happened, I discovered it was my destiny that my hobby is my profession,” Zakir opens up.

Zakir's masterful craftsmanship lies in oriental aromatics to which oud is central. The fragrant ingredient and the perfumer go a long way. Zakir, who is originally from the Indian state of Assam, has grown up watching oud being harvested.

As a perfumer, he expanded his company's oeuvre.“Oriental ingredients exhibit a remarkable diversity and depth. Some possessing potent and polarising characteristics. Oud serves as a particularly intriguing component of my blend,” affirms Zakir.

“Oud amplifies aura and creates complex layers in a blend while various musk family ingredients such as civet, hyrax, castoreum, and ambergris present considerable challenges in their application” he adds.

For the uninitiated, oud is a resinous substance formed in Aquilaria trees once it is infected with a fungus. The resin is produced as a part of the trees' self-defence. North Eastern India produces one of the most coveted and expensive ouds in the world, referred to as“Hindi” across the Middle East and beyond.

Essential scents

It's evening, and we move into the central work space, soft lights illuminate the room, rows of beakers and glass jars filled with raw ingredients line the shelves, and stacks of perfumes are neatly lined ready for dispatch. As an aspiring fraghead, I am more curious than ever about the difference between extraits and mukhalats. Zakir breaks it down.“Extrait represents the highest concentration of oil found in perfumes. Mukhallat, commonly referred to as attar, is traditionally a blend of essential oils.”

But why Dubai? Why should a well-known perfumer decide to make the Emirates his base? Zakir explains:“Dubai's like a bridge between Eastern and Western perfumes. I've been thinking about moving here for ages and after the pandemic, I knew it was the right call since my work gets way more recognised here, as an artisanal brand. The craft of perfumery is highly respected here; it's acknowledged as an art form. It's the place to be for oriental perfumery. If France represents the heart of the perfume industry, then the UAE functions as a vital lung, serving as a crucial platform for showcasing, discovering, and distributing fragrances. The perfume industry in this region is characterised by a mix of diverse traditions and cultures.”

Zakir excuses himself as his team needs him for a bit, and as he goes about his business, I notice the rhythm with which the team goes about as if orchestrated. While I wait for him I think of that 'one' word that firmly puts Zakir on the Arab scent map: it is, of course, oud.

“Oud plays a significant role, an essential ingredient of the traditional fragrance culture of the United Arab Emirates and Middle East,”
he agrees.

Then, he reveals a personal anecdote:“My father had served royalty from the Middle East as one of primary sources for agarwood from India. He catered mainly to Saudi Arabia and Bahrain. In Oman, he played a key role in helping set up a distillery for oud in Muscat.”

He adds:“We are one of few families who have been working with oud blending with florals and so forth, it is unique to us.”

Having found the dots that make Zakir's world, I ask about his plans for the foreseeable future.“I have growth potential in Dubai, unlike anywhere else in the world, a promising future.” He adds:“As an artisanal business in Dubai, my work has been receiving significant attention, enthusiasm and affection. Our oud-based mukhallats have been particularly well-received and are experiencing growth due to their exceptional quality and exclusivity.”

“We are planning a full-fledged studio in 2026. It will be a very soulful experience for fragrance lovers. We want to pursue traditional art with avant garde vision.”

Assured that the soul of Zakir 's perfumery will be rooted in the traditional, artisanal practices he belongs to, I ask about his most satisfying creations so far.“Soil of Eden, an elixir based on traditional formulations with ingredients like oud, rose, musk, and a twist of mushrooms. Then comes the White Rose.“It is imaginary accord captured well in the past and widely adored in the Gulf. My work on this accord will be showcased in December 2025,” he says.

A quiet smile ensures that he is looking forward to December as he adds:“The Middle East market has great momentum. A boom is right around the corner, oriental perfumery has been widely accepted and now is in demand in the West.”

No conversation on fragrances can wrap up without a talk about favourites that have stood the test of time. Zakir pauses and quickly shares his list: Autograph (Zakir Gafur), Barenia (Hermes), Un Vie En Rose (Henry Jacques), Passion 50 (Amouage) Ghaliya Naadir (Zakir Gafur), Hajar Al
Aswad (Zakir Gafur), and White Rose
(Zakir Gafur).

As I pack up, Zakir has gone back to what he does best. I see him at the far end of the room, the air has a faint tinge of milky burnt vanillia brulee, sandalwood and most distinguishably, a whiff of jasmine. I could not resist the temptation of asking him about the new scent.“I have named it Del Sol,” he says, a Spanish term that roughly translates as: from the sun. Apt then, as a metaphor for his universe of perfumery - bold yet fresh with a hint of warmth.

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