(MENAFN- AzerNews) Traditional clothes in Azerbaijan have had peculiar design and
fashion. For the ancient Nakhchivan clothes usually red, brown,
green silvery colors predominantly used for the ancient Nakhchivan
clothes. The colors in suits were selected considering each little
details and fitting exactly. Though different elements of clothes
suits were sewed from colorful fabrics, by all means solid and
somber colors were also selected. Generally the more reach and
beautiful clothes prepared by using all sewing techniques such as
decoration with neaty decorative, chains and shahapasandlar, beady
sewing, sewing with spiral metals, but in general, the clothes
suits made a boundary between a clothes holder and environment. The
sleeve of drawers was designed masterly by particularly using
silver and beady fancy-work form.
Simplicity that is achieved in design
Very neaty design was made along the sewing lines of arkhalig
and kulaja. For this style mainly chain ties were used. And in the
sewing techniques mainly natural designs were applied. The cut of
Nakhchivan clothes is simple; sleeves were cut straight. The cut of
shirt and drawers and sewing technique were alike of different
regions.
Only arkhalig is relatively different. The collar section of
arkhalig is the same as it exists in chapkand. If arkhalig is long
(it is called kulaja) it is cut on the waist, if short, it is cut
wholly as it exists in chapkan, but this time a section and a
fabric projection are put on the sides. The front collar of
long-sleeved and oversleeved arkhaligs was very far from each other
and this form arkhalig was completed with rich chestties, sarmas
and necklaces etc. Chest decorations of rich women were made from
jaw up to waist. In cold weather the sleeve of arkhalig was
buttoned and put on kulacha over it. In order not to prevent the
oversleeve was folded from the wrist up.
For this reason the oversleeves were sewed from inside. Kulacha
looks like bahariya and mainly designed in Shusha and in most cases
it was sewed with long-sleeves. Waist line, side seam and backside
weren't designed with fancy works. The neatiness and practice of
handicraft in Nakhchivan clothes predicts of a high level of
technology. Some women's clothes in Nakhchivan are defended in
Azerbaijan State History Museum. Although some of them are of the
same name but they differ from one another for their design
elements.
Arkhalig was sewed of silver coloured atlas (silken fabric) from
inside. It possesses a section of 10 cm at height on the sides an a
fabric projection. Sleeves are sewed straight and long. Sleeve edge
and side sections are bounded with a chain. Arkhalig was sewed from
colorful velvet. Inner side of the clothes is of striped of satin
fabric. Sleeve is cut straight. Collar is designed with gallon
along single and section but at the sleeve end with the shahpasand.
Arkhalig is sewed with red, colorful brocade. Inside is of white
satin. Sleeve is cut straight and length is up to the wrist.
Collar, sleeve, sleeve edge, and along the section are designed
with small heads, scale and golden gallon. Arkhalig shirt is sewed
with a silvery inside. It is cut straight, and shoulder part
remains seamless. There are pleats at 0,5 cm of depth on sleeves.
Khishdak is sewed beneath under the sleeve. Arkhalig is sewed of
silvery, soft fabric. Clothes suit is added a suitable colouful
kerchief. Kulacha is a women clothes guilded inside the shoulder
with its seasonable feature, and was popular in Nakhchivan zone. It
was cut with straight sleeve, a bit down from the elbow with open
collar. It is popular with rich design along sewing line
layout.
Kulacha was mainly sewed from a thick velvet and tough fabrics
and designed same as overdrawer's sleeve decoration. For its
fashion it was designed using different fancy works techniques such
as gulabatin, fanaj-work, malila, gallen, zanjira, garagoz, sarma,
beady fancy work, scale, filling and so on. Kulacha is usually
designed in red and brown colours. Sewed of designed fabric, waist
section woman overdress. Little pleated sleeve is sewed on the
waist without buttons. Sleeve is cut straight, and on the waist a
little pleated sleeve is sewed.
Along the sleeved edge, little beady malila and scaled
fancy-work were used at the front seams and sleeve border line.
Among Nakhchivan clothes there were different drawers kinds. It is
of the same fabric kulacha with 2,5 cm belt place. From another
fabric a folder piece of 10,5sm is sewed on the drawers sleeve
border. Sleeve of drawers is designed with a spiral silver zanjira,
little beads and scales. In Nakhchivan, in simple families women
used to have two kerchiefs. But in rich families a skull cap
substituted under kerchief.
In simple families of Nakhchivan over gashband (kerchief) a silk
kerchief was put on. The kerchief was fastened on both sides with a
throatholder. Silk kerchief or fringy silk kerchief put on the
clothes is folded along the diagonal, and the ends being joint at
the front provides the center to be on the top. By making a little
folder down the ear on the right end a perpendicular folder happens
towards that end and at that point that fold forms a mouth kerchief
passing under a nose passage and is thrown back from a left
shoulder. In rich families a designed skull-cap or golden silver
hoods were used. Kerchief was fastened on them with a special
expensive pin. In such families in most cases a throat was not
covered with kerchiefs but with golden hang silsilas. This time a
very noble kerchief fastened on the headware or skull cap is freely
thrown backside.
Nakhchivani men clothes were the same as it was in other regions
of Azerbaijan, including arkhalig, gurshag, trousers, chukha,
sheepskincoat, felt cloak having occupation importance, leather,
felt and headgears prepared from different fabrics-cap, tashkulah,
bork and so on.
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