From UAE To Sri Lanka: Things To See At Yala National Park

We drive on bumpy trails through scrub land, ironwood, Ceylon oak and tea trees, and rocky outcrops interspersed with water bodies. Iridescent kingfishers swoop down in the waters, rose-ringed parakeets swing on branches, and egrets plod in the mud flats. Slices of jungle life unfold in cinematic splendour before our eyes - monitor lizards and a ruddy mongoose slink past us, cheeky macaque monkeys hang from branches, rainbow-coloured jungle fowls dart across the path and a herd of wild elephants led by the matriarch trample through the bushes. A lone tusker stands on the side of the road using his trunk to throw up clouds of amber dust into the air. Flocks of peacock prance across our paths. There are boards that read“Leopards are the true owners of the land.”

I am at Yala National Park in Sri Lanka, the second-largest national park in the country and one of the most visited, covering an area of 979 square kilometres. It's known for its high concentration of leopards, which are often found lounging on large rock formations or lazing on trees. The park's mix of wetland, grassland, and forest habitats range from sandy beaches to thorn forests and moist monsoon forests. The park was severely impacted by the tsunami in 2004, a catastrophe that left a deep scar on the land and its inhabitants, but today the ecosystem has healed and bounced back. Dramatic rocks rise from the jungle and eagles soar above our heads.

Our home away from home is the new luxury safari lodge called Warden's House, with just four luxury suites on a seven-acre estate. Located in Galge, just a 15-minute drive from Yala National Park's quieter Block 5, and along the Menik Ganga, it affords a different view of Yala away from the beach. Launched by Amrit Rajaratnam, The Warden's House is the third offering by Maitland and Knox (now rebranded as Island Life Sri Lanka), the team behind iconic hotels like Galle Fort Hotel and Thotalagala. The property sits on land that belongs to Senaka Kumara, a wildlife photographer, who has a home adjoining the property. The decor is rustic, understated and minimalistic, allowing nature to take centre stage.

Each of the four suites are named after a Sri Lankan national park - Yala, Wilpattu, Horton Plains, and Kumana - and decorated with large four-poster beds complete with mosquito nets, wooden wardrobes, study tables, black-and-white photographs, old maps, and memorabilia. Verandahs open onto green lawns, a swimming pool, and views of the forest. The Wilpattu Suite pays homage to Sri Lanka's northwest coast and the indigenous people of Sri Lanka, the Veddas, while the Yala Suite draws inspiration from the natural landscapes and wildlife diversity of the park it's named after. The Kumana Suite takes inspiration from the region's 200 bird species, and displays artwork and photography of rare and endemic avian life in Sri Lanka. I love the Hortons Plains Suite, which exhibits antiques and curios from the upland regions of the island.

When we get to our room, we find a glass jar with Kalu dodol, a local sweet famous in the region. The dark and sticky sweet made from kithul palm jaggery, rice flour, and coconut milk is believed to have been brought to the country by either Indonesian migrants or the Portuguese.

The lodge has a swimming pool and a lawn with tall trees where Malabar hornbills flit from one tree to another. The lodge is fully solar-powered, does not use single-use plastics, and has glass water bottles across suites. The team is also rewilding the area to minimise impact and bringing back native trees to restore the ecosystem. I sit in the open lounge and sketch what I see before me.

For the afternoon safari, we clamber into jeeps driving through vast stretches of rugged terrain, watching out for the elusive feline, scanning rocks and bushes. We spot endemic birds like the Sri Lankan grey hornbill, Sri Lankan jungle fowl, and the Sri Lankan brown capped babbler. The lakes and waterholes are treasure troves. Flocks of spoonbills and painted storks create mesmerising reflections against the waters. Flocks of Malabar pied Hornbills rub themselves with ash from burnt trees to get rid of parasites.

We see a mugger crocodile, basking on the banks of lagoons, as colourful butterflies and dragonflies flit above our heads. Grey-headed fish eagles and cormorants swoop down on their catch. Our naturalist guide tells us about nocturnal sloth bears that are found in these forests. They mainly feed on termites, and in the Palu season in May climb trees to feast on yellow berries.

Though our ranger gets a call that a leopard has been spotted, by the time we race through the park to the other side, it has disappeared into the bushes. The park is dotted with streams, tanks, waterholes,and lagoons that are an important source of water for animals. We stop near the iconic Weheragala Reservoir, depicted in the 5,000 Sri Lankan Rupeee note, which was completed in 2009 by building a dam across the Menik Ganga. The skeletal stumps of submerged iron wood trees rise from the water. Archaeological sites scatter the surrounding areas of the Weheragala reservoir. Our guide opens up a picnic of Sri Lankan treats like cakes and sandwiches, along with bottles of fresh watermelon juice. We watch the setting sun cast reflections on the water and the skeletons of trees, enjoying our snacks.

The property offers birdwatching, walks through paddy fields and local villages, and visits to historical sites. Not far from the lodge is Kataragama, a sacred town for both Hindus and Buddhists. Every year, Kataragama marks the end point of a two-month pilgrimage undertaken by pilgrims on foot. The ancient Buddhist monastery, Sithulpawwa Rock Temple, is perfect to get a bird's-eye view of the park.

A great experience is the elaborate high tea set up at the banks of the Menik river, with overhanging branches of arjun trees and huge boulders and rocks. I am tempted to have a dip but restrict myself to dipping my legs in the cool waters, as I munch on sandwiches and lentil vadais along with fragrant Ceylon tea.

Dinner is served under the stars, on candlelit tables set on the lawns and under a tamarind tree lit by lanterns. Listening to the distant sounds of the jungle, it's a pleasure to feast on freshly baked breads with curry leaf pesto and coconut rotis, pomelo salads and Sri Lankan curry and rice. The property also does barbeque dinners -open-fire feasts under the stars, with grilled chicken and smoky vegetables. Though we were not lucky enough to see a leopard, just the thrill of tracking one, and enjoying the tranquillity here has rejuvenated us beyond measure.

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