Scooters, Struggles & Survival: Inside Kashmir's Food Delivery Scene

(MENAFN- Kashmir Observer) Srinagar- Mohd Aneeq Shah navigates the crowded streets of Srinagar on his scooter, skilfully avoiding potholes, stray dogs, and impatient drivers. A bag of freshly prepared biryani, still steaming, is strapped to his back. It's 4 p.m., and he's racing against time, not only to satisfy a hungry customer but also to maintain his delivery rating.

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Like Aneeq, hundreds of food delivery workers navigate Kashmir's unpredictable weather, facing challenges like snow in winter, scorching heat in summer, and heavy rains that can make driving dangerous.

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The increasing demand for online food delivery has given rise to a new class of workers in Kashmir: young men, students balancing their education with employment, and older individuals who find it difficult to secure alternative jobs. However, their work is anything but easy.

Unemployment Pushed Gig Work

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Recently, the Ministry of Statistics and Programme Implementation released the Periodic Labour Force Survey (PLFS) for July to September 2024, revealing concerns about unemployment rates. Among urban job seekers aged 15 to 29, Jammu & Kashmir recorded the highest unemployment rate at 32%. This crisis has compelled many young people to seek employment in the gig economy, with food delivery services being one of the few accessible options available to them.

At 23, Asif Ahmad from Khanyar has been working with Swiggy since 2023. He took up the job after his father's passing, becoming the family's primary breadwinner.

What began as a means of survival has now become a full-time job, yet he notes that his earnings are declining while his hours are increasing.“A year ago, I could earn ₹1,500 per day, but now, even if I work from 10 a.m. to 11 p.m., I barely make ₹1,200,” he explains.“The competition has grown, and there are more delivery workers now. I work at least 13 hours a day, seven days a week.”

Financial Instability and Rising Fuel Costs

Asif's story is not unique. Many delivery workers depend on this job as their main source of income, and rising fuel costs have significantly reduced their earnings.“My petrol expenses alone are around ₹300 per day,” Asif explains.“After covering fuel and other expenses, I'm left with very little. It's simply not sustainable.”

Mohd Aneeq, a commerce student who works for Swiggy, faces similar challenges.“I work less than 10 hours a day and earn around ₹500 to ₹700 daily, but ₹200 of that goes towards petrol alone. There are days when deliveries are slow, and I barely make enough to justify the work.”

The gig economy offers income, but it comes at the cost of job security. Delivery workers often face precarious employment, subject to rating-based systems where a single customer complaint can lead to immediate account suspension.“If a customer complains, our accounts get suspended immediately,” explains Aneeq.“The company only starts an investigation after the suspension, not before.”

Danish Ahmad, a delivery worker from Chanpora employed by Gatoes since May 2022, offers a different perspective.“I've been working with Gatoes for three years, and I'm currently pursuing my graduation through IGNOU,” he explains.“I took this job to support my family and become financially independent. I couldn't rely on them forever.”

Danish views his delivery job as a reliable source of income and isn't actively looking for other employment at the moment. However, he remains open to better opportunities.“I'm earning well, so I don't plan to change jobs soon,” he says.“But if another company offers a higher salary, I'd consider it.” He added,“On average, I earn between ₹40,000 and ₹50,000 per month, and my monthly bike expenses are around ₹6,000 to ₹7,000.”

Battling Social Stigma

In addition to financial challenges, delivery workers in Kashmir encounter significant social stigma. Although their jobs are essential, these positions are often viewed with disdain.“When I leave for work, I take off my company jacket and bag and store them on my scooter because my neighbours look down on me,” says Aneeq.

There are significant safety concerns for those working late at night.“Stray dogs are a major issue,” says Aneeq.“Some workers have been chased by these dogs while delivering food. The cold winter nights are also unbearable, but we have no choice.”

Asif shares this feeling:“People do not respect us when we deliver food, and those who live near us also look down on us. We are viewed as if this job is beneath our dignity.”

Danish believes that social stigma is influenced by people's perspectives, but he feels that younger generations are generally more open to different types of work.“My family supports me in this job because I am not stealing; I'm earning money through hard work. Some of my friends who completed their B. Tech degrees are now doing this job as well.”

“When we started in 2020, I delivered food myself,” Danish Majeed, Gatoes' first employee, and the chief financial officer recalls.“I understand what delivery workers go through because I've experienced the same challenges.”

Respect and fair treatment of delivery workers remains a priority for the company.“We have already instructed restaurants not to keep delivery boys waiting outside in the cold. Recently, some of our workers were denied access to elevators and forced to take the stairs. We told those restaurants that if our boys aren't allowed to use the elevator, they should bring the parcel downstairs,” he explains.“Just because they work as delivery boys doesn't mean they don't deserve respect.”

The company also adjusts operations according to seasonal changes.“In winter, we don't keep our delivery boys out too late because it impacts their health. If they fall sick, they lose their ability to work properly. In summer, they work later into the night,” Majeed says.

Dr. Aadil Bashir, an Associate Professor in the Department of Social Work at the University of Kashmir, discusses the stigma surrounding certain professions in Kashmir. He states,“When new opportunities arise in the market, people are often drawn to them; however, people frequently judge those who work in these industries. Instead of remaining idle, it is better to stay productive than to take the wrong path.”

The Growing Demand for Food Delivery

Readily available food while providing employment opportunities for many has also transformed the eating habits of people. Consumers are increasingly relying on online food services, either for convenience or due to personal constraints.

For 20-year-old Janat Khan, online food services offer an important alternative to dining out because of her struggles with social anxiety.“I have social anxiety, so I prefer to order food online rather than eat out. Since I cannot go to restaurants alone, I feel more comfortable eating at home,” she explained.

Even in social settings, she feels uneasy in crowded places, so ordering food at home allows her to enjoy meals without discomfort.“Ordering food at home gives me a sense of control, I don't have to deal with noise, wait in line, or feel judged by others,” she explained.

Ordering food at any time has made life easier for many people. Mansha Parvez is one such customer who appreciates the convenience of having meals delivered right to her doorstep.“I typically order food once or twice a week whenever I crave something delicious. It's convenient because I don't have to cook, the food arrives prepared and ready to eat,” she explained.

On days when she feels too exhausted to cook, she considers food delivery a blessing.“With so many options available, I can order anything from a quick snack to a full meal with just a few taps on my phone.”

For many people, the appeal of food delivery goes beyond just convenience; it also caters to late-night cravings and social gatherings.“Late-night cravings are real! Sometimes I suddenly get the urge to have momos, pizza, or dessert, and I love that I can simply order it and have it delivered right to my door,” Mansha shared.

She also noted how food delivery has transformed family dining experiences.“Even during family gatherings, we often choose to order food instead of spending hours cooking in the kitchen. It saves time and effort, allowing us to enjoy restaurant-quality meals in the comfort of our own home.”

“Zomato or Swiggy, readily available at the tap of a phone, not only cater to hunger but also offer convenience to those with busy schedules, including working professionals and students. Additionally, they provide a crucial service for women, particularly those juggling multiple responsibilities or facing mobility constraints, making food accessibility easier than ever,” he said.

A Changing Industry

According to a news outlet, Gatoes delivers to more than 45,000 customers a month; the app receives about 1,600 orders per day and lists more than 1,200 restaurants and cafes in Jammu and Kashmir. The company works with more than 200 delivery workers in the region and has 50 full-time employees.

Danish Ahmad also acknowledges the growing demand for food delivery.“When I started working in 2022, we used to get around 20 to 25 orders per day, and it increased over the years. I have seen a large shift since 2023, with more rush in online delivery compared to dine-in customers. I think most people prefer eating at home these days. I usually work from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., but when there is a rush, we extend our working hours till 11 p.m.”

In 2023, with fewer delivery workers on the road, riders handled a higher number of daily orders. But as demand surged in early 2024, companies aggressively expanded their workforce, which ultimately reduced the per-person share of deliveries.

“Back in 2023, we used to get around 30 orders per day because there were only about 500 delivery workers. But as demand spiked in early 2024, companies started hiring rapidly. By mid-2024, the workforce had grown to over 1,500, and now, with nearly 2,000 riders, we barely get 10 to 15 orders a day,” says Asif Ahmad.

Mukhtar Ahmad, Manager at Chiliz – The Pizza Shop, notes that food delivery has become an integral part of restaurant business models.“We started our delivery service five years ago. On average, we receive 20 to 25 orders daily, but in summer, that increases to 40 or more. Winter is slow for both dine-in and delivery.”

Imtiyaaz Mir, manager at Grill-Inn, shares a similar perspective.“We started online delivery two years ago, and it has helped our business a lot. In summer, we get around 20 to 30 orders a day, but in winter, it drops drastically-we hardly get 5 to 10.”

Food delivery in Kashmir has changed eating habits and created employment opportunities for many individuals, but the challenges associated with this industry cannot be overlooked. While customers appreciate the convenience of having restaurant-quality meals delivered to their doorsteps, delivery workers often face financial instability, safety risks, and social stigma.

Despite these difficulties, many workers remain dedicated to their jobs, hoping that as the industry evolves, conditions will improve. Until then, they continue to navigate traffic, endure harsh weather, and confront social stigma, delivering more than just food; they offer a glimpse into the changing landscape of work and consumption in Kashmir.

Experts like Dr. Asil Bashir, Associate Professor in the department of social work, believe that societal attitudes towards the delivery workers need to change. He states,“There is a stigma attached to nearly all jobs in Kashmir. We must change how we perceive employment and recognize that any form of work is valuable.”

For delivery workers such as Aneeq and Asif, the future is uncertain. Asif expresses a blend of resignation and hope when he says,“I don't know if I'll ever do anything else, but I hope that one day we'll be treated with respect.”

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