Tuesday, 02 January 2024 12:17 GMT

Gymkhana Dubai Review: Does London's Two-Michelin-Star Favourite Live Up To The Hype?


(MENAFN- Khaleej Times) The celebrated name has arrived in DIFC with plush interiors and a menu that draws on the restaurant's signature Indian cooking while introducing touches tailored to the UAE
    By: Charles Yardley

    Gymkhana has always been one of those restaurants that feels established rather than launched‭ ‬-‭ ‬a stalwart of the tier-one Indian dining scene in London‭. ‬If you're not aware‭, ‬Gymkhana London is the flagship two Michelin-star venue‭. ‬The arrival of Gymkhana Dubai in DIFC doesn't read like a newcomer's debut‭. ‬It reads like a relocation of excellence‭: ‬a familiar triumph brought home‭, ‬polished up‭, ‬and dressed for the Dubai lights‭.‬

    Inside‭, ‬the restaurant splits into three distinct spaces‭, ‬each doing a different job‭. ‬The main dining room is velvet-dark and buzzy‭, ‬with a burgundy ceiling and handsome wooden walls‭. ‬The lighting is perfect‭, ‬flattering in that expensive way that makes everyone look like they've spent time in better hands than their own mirror‭. ‬It felt‭, ‬very memorably‭, ‬like dining in a luxury Orient Express carriage‭ ‬-‭ ‬the kind where you expect a waiter to recommend a beverage you didn't know you wanted and then deliver it with calm certainty‭. ‬

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    A bar-style area sits beside it all‭: ‬cosy booths‭, ‬stylish energy‭, ‬and the pleasing sense that this is a place for conversation‭ ‬-‭ ‬because the chattering noise makes a fun atmosphere‭, ‬not a nuisance‭. ‬Downstairs is a cool‭, ‬cavernous dining space‭: ‬spacious‭, ‬atmospheric‭, ‬and clearly built for occasions‭ ‬-‭ ‬where events are hosted‭, ‬and nobody appears to remember they were ever attending anything remotely for networking purposes‭.‬

    The service was exemplary and never overdone‭. ‬No syrupy pantomime‭, ‬no exhausting parade of scripted‭ ‬“enjoy‭!‬”‭ ‬moments‭ (‬you know the ones where the staff seem more excited about your happiness than you are‭). ‬One waiter delivered a line that sums up the discipline‭: ‬“What is promised has to be delivered‭.‬”‭ ‬In a business district like DIFC‭, ‬where everything arrives with the faint aura of compliance‭, ‬it felt almost refreshing to hear‭ ‬such straightforward honesty‭. ‬And it's backed up by execution‭ ‬-‭ ‬the courses landed smoothly‭, ‬at the right pace‭, ‬with genuine care‭.‬

    The menu is extensive‭, ‬familiar to those who've seen Gymkhana's style before‭ ‬-‭ ‬but with a distinct UAE twist‭. ‬The best part is that it doesn't trade on gimmicks‭. ‬It trades on appetite‭. ‬Starters begin with street-food energy‭, ‬then elevate it into something genuinely refined‭. ‬There were chutney-forward bites served alongside potato rice‭, ‬plus lentil and wheat poppadums that were so moreish you could easily convince yourself they were designed for‭ ‬“just one more”‭. ‬I‭, ‬personally‭, ‬would have been happy to make a meal out of nothing but those poppadums and chutneys‭.‬

    Then came a delicious little show of technique‭: ‬shrimp and cauliflower fired balls‭ ‬-‭ ‬crisp‭, ‬intensely flavourful‭, ‬and disappearing at a rate that suggested the table had made a pact‭. ‬And the wild tiger prawns‭ ‬-‭ ‬so garlicky and vibrant with garlic‭, ‬chives‭, ‬and chilli that they didn't just taste bold‭; ‬they tasted intentional‭. ‬The main event‭ ‬-‭ ‬the dish people talk about‭ ‬-‭ ‬was a globally competitive lamb preparation‭. ‬They serve two chops with what looks like a Thousand Island-style sauce‭, ‬but it's far better than that‭: ‬richer‭, ‬deeper‭, ‬and somehow engineered to feel like it melts in the mouth‭. ‬I don't say this lightly‭: ‬I could have gnawed a few more‭. ‬This is the kind of main course that makes you understand why guests keep returning‭. ‬

    For dessert‭, ‬we went for the saffron pistachio kulfi falooda‭, ‬and honestly‭, ‬the name is almost unfair because it doesn't quite prepare you for the experience‭. ‬It combines creamy saffron-infused pistachio kulfi with noodles‭, ‬basil seeds‭, ‬and chilled milk‭ ‬-‭ ‬creating a dessert that's indulgent‭, ‬chilled‭, ‬and beautifully balanced‭. ‬

    Gymkhana Dubai delivered the thing that matters most‭: ‬a high level of consistency‭. ‬And while two Michelin stars remain in London‭ (‬for now‭), ‬I'd be confident Gymkhana Dubai is aiming for those dizzy heights‭, ‬with the DIFC crowd's full approval‭!‬

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