“I started cooking at home when I was dating my wife,” said the 50-year-old, half-Iraqi, half-British New Yorker.“I'd spend all day reading cookbooks and experimenting in the kitchen. By the time she got home, there was a homemade meal waiting for her.”
Dagstani moved to the UAE capital 11 years ago after his wife, a physician, began a job at Cleveland Clinic Abu Dhabi.
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“I ran big restaurants in New York, including Per Se with chef Thomas Keller, but then I took a step back to raise my family. When the boys were old enough, we started Marmellata.”
What began as a small pizza spot, operating only on Thursdays, has evolved into a culinary gem. Nominated as one of MENA's 50 Best Restaurants for 2025, Marmellata captivates diners with its charming interiors, cozy atmosphere, and notoriously limited availability.
Nestled in Souq Al Mina, Marmellata opened in 2019 with a simple aim – to give Dagstani's sons, Emil and Sebastian, their first after-school job.“I didn't want my kids growing up in a bubble of entitlement and privilege,” he said.
Initially, Marmellata opened only on Thursday nights.“There was no menu - just whatever we found at the market that day. People waited in line for hours for pizza made with the freshest ingredients. It was small, chaotic, and people loved it.”
Despite the name Marmellata Bakery, the focus has always been pizza.“Our original intention was to open a bakery,” Dagstani explained.“But the pizza was such a hit that we didn't need to make anything else. It's about listening to what the business wants to be and letting it grow.”
Over time, Marmellata's operating hours expanded. After a year-long closure in 2023 for Souq Al Mina renovations, the pizzeria grew from one day a week to five days a week, operating from 5pm to 9.30pm. The restaurant's popularity has made reservations a challenge, and the long lines of eager diners are now part of its allure.
But according to Dagstani, Marmellata's magic goes beyond the food.“It's about the atmosphere and the sense of community,” he said. The restaurant, with its royal blue aprons, crisp white uniforms, and porcelain decor, radiates warmth and authenticity.“We're not just a great place to eat; we're a great place to work.”
Even during the COVID-19 pandemic, Marmellata maintained its personal touch.“We started selling focaccia instead of pizza. People booked time slots online, and we got to interact with them one-on-one when they picked up their food. It kept the connection alive.”
While there has been speculation about Marmellata's limited hours, with rumours ranging from a clever marketing strategy to Dagstani's corporate commitments or owner's relaxed attitude. But the real reason, Dagstani revealed, is simple:“The limitation isn't a strategy; it's just reality. Our kitchen is small, and we can only produce 450 pizzas a night.”
Since Marmellata's location is considered modern heritage, expansion isn't an option. Instead, Dagstani is opening a neighboring doughnut store to use its kitchen to produce more dough for the pizza.
While the early days saw Dagstani and his younger son Sebastian running the kitchen themselves, the restaurant now employs 25 staff members. Dagstani is ready to stand behind the stove again with his next venture, a sandwich shop called Barbassi, also at Souq Al Mina.“One of the greatest joys for me about the new place is I'll be cooking and making bread again.”
For Dagstani, the journey has come full circle.“I've worked in restaurants my whole life, starting at 16. Ironically, my first job was as a waiter in a pizza place in Virginia.”